After a great and exciting day previous, another ride route for this day was into the "Lagos" region on blacktop.
Observing the controlled chaos
En masse, several hundred riders left downtown Uruapan at 9 am sharp, escorted initially by the police through downtown.
I ended up separated from our crew and somehow managed to be in the first 10 riders or so again, that is until I had to pull in for fuel, watching the stream of motorcycles racing past.
While in the station, Cullen pulled in on his KTM, both of us low from yesterday's ride. We exited the station together and stayed in sight for a while.
Quickly we were shrouded in low clouds, my sunglasses and shield covered thickly with moisture. The riding was extremely fast and on the narrow roads with fog and multiple bikes, it was somewhat intense for a bit. Did I mention the Mexican riders rode fast? The moisture stayed heavy and shielded the sun for much of the early portion of the ride, also obscuring the scenery high in the mountains.
Eventually it burned away, revealing great views and beautiful countryside. We rode fast and passed through small towns, jumping the ever present topes on the GS's, the street bikes having to slow almost to a stop. It was very interesting seeing the native Indian population watch as we passed through town, the smell of wood smoke in the air. Scenes of fields of corn, old men with machetes and men riding burros along the road.
One thing about the BMW clubs I mentioned, is that the riders take their ownership of the bikes and riding very seriously. They are first class riders, very fast and aggressive, either solo or two-up. The bikes are generally new, in great condition and the riding gear is high quality. I was impressed with the level of quality, skill, professionalism and friendliness of the riders and club organizers here. The event was absolutely first rate. In Mexico, the rallies and clubs are a source of pride and status, exemplifying quality.
Having said that, it's hard to explain to someone, myself included, just how fast and aggressively they ride. Not hooliganism, just skilled and fast.
As Jimmy said, in the U.S. we'd be put under the jail for riding this way, but in Mexico it's just the accepted “normal”. Readjusting to riding back home in the U.S. was going to be difficult. My only frustration was that the riding and time schedule was so aggressive I had no time for photos while riding, instead just road racing and concentrating intensely.
As we rode higher and higher, the roads became tight and twisty, with one section several miles long that is one of the best roads I've ridden. The sharp turns were banked, as if built for motorcycles and it was like a dream riding through forests with views of volcanos and mountains.
We passed through Quiroga, a larger town, which led us up to Tzintzuntzan where we caught a narrow road high along the edge of the lake. I looked to my right and the view took my breath away, but I had to stay focused on riding.
We finally ended up in the town of Patzcuaro, bikes parking all around the central plaza. There was a little market, loaded with sugar skulls and candies as they prepared for the upcoming Day of the Dead holiday. Rob and I snagged an excellent cappucino there. We made friends with an Italian rider named Tommas, whom in later conversation I found out was a nephrologist in Mexico. Cullen came in a bit later and we all mixed in with several hundred riders.
Making a sugar skull
All four sides of the square looked like this, so you can imagine how this stream of bikes passing through small villages created quite a stir
A government official from the town gave a welcoming speech, choosing the pegs of Rob's 650 to stand on, after which we moved into the plaza center for a giant group photo from a scaffolding setup. There was a native music and dance demonstration while we cooled off and then the announcement was made that we would be leaving in a few minutes.
I began readying my gear at the bike, my long hair loose from having lost the rubber band for my ponytail in the wind, when I felt a tap and turned around to see a cute little girl and her brother dressed in their school clothes. She asked in very good English if I was the rider from Texas. I said "Yes ma'am I am" and smiled. She beamed and said excitedly "I was born in Texas!" I laughed and asked her where, to which she responded "Dallas!". When I told her I had lived there she just giggled.
I knelt down to shake her hand, told her my name and her brother excitedly told me his. They had seen my Texas license plate and had waited by the motorcycle to meet someone from Texas. I asked their mother if it was OK if they sat on my bike and they got very excited, but she said they needed to run home and get their camera first. They were afraid we would be gone by the time they got back, so I took a picture of them. It was very sweet and sure enough, I had to leave before they returned.
As an aside, I guess seeing a big Texan with a ponytail in this neck of the woods is rare. People stare at me like I'm an alien and I've been asked several times to take a picture with them. It’s been fun being a freak.
One of the enjoyable things in riding here has been the groups of children screaming, yelling and waving as we pass through. Seeing a stream of 600 motorcycles passing through the little villages is a once in a lifetime event.
A vivid memory was seeing a very old Indian woman dressed in traditional garb, literally jumping up and down with joy like a little kid and laughing out loud, throwing her arms in the air as we passed her on a narrow street.
From Patzcuaro, we rode to the town of Zirahuen on a lake, where another event was set up and waiting for us.
Now that’s a bunch of Beemers…
The area is near Santa Clara Del Cobre, famous for copper mining and copper craftsmanship. At the event, they had a furnace set up and were smelting copper, heating the disc, pulling it out and 4 guys hammering with sledges in perfect rhythm.
The Copper Queen and Copper Princess greeted us… be still my beating heart :D
Again, white tents and tables with white cloths were set up beside the lake. We were served varied courses of local food and were serenaded by musicians and dance. This lasted through the afternoon until the raffles for prizes and a new BMW motorcycle was given away.
Roughing it once again… I was beginning to like how Mexican motorcyclists think. Quite different than the BMW rallies in the US where scraggly old men with grey beards and faded t-shirts stand around with a beer… wait a minute, I fit that description :O
Deep fried minnows - delicioso!
Rob showing a close-up… we scarfed these babies down!
THE best tasting chicken I've ever had. There was a 30 foot row of coals with the chickens roasting. Hoo Weee!
The lake and a wonderful breeze kept us cool all afternoon while we ate, watched the dancing and listened to music.
With this region being the copper rich area, we saw demonstrations of copper forming and such. Mark, being a chef, snagged an entire set of copper pots at what he described as ridiculously low prices. I chuckled at the thought of him carrying the huge set on his motorcycle back to Colorado. He laughed and said it was such a bargain, he could toss all the things he brought and still come out way ahead.
Hammering the copper
After lying in the sun and cool breeze by the water for a while, Rob and I headed back for Uruapan and arrived late in the day.
The roads this day were absolutely superb, as was the food and friendship.
I managed to get a little bit of GoPro footage of returning to Uruapan with Rob, though not the best by far.
Third time was charm :D
That evening we walked the plaza and a couple of hotel lobbies to check things out and eventually find some dinner.
The hotels were adding Dia De Los Muertos decorations, the ubiquitous marigold petals and flowers used all about the town.
The Route: