Sunday morning was misty, drizzly and rainy in the Kerrville area and my ride to Biker Church was a bit damp, to say the least. I'd had plenty of mist, fog and rain the night before while riding back from Austin so I was bummed by the weather. But miracles do happen and by the time "chuch" was over, the skies had begun to clear and a beautiful day was forming.
Drawn by the excellent weather and blue skies, I headed south on Hwy 16, enjoying the smooth purr of the GS on the twists and turns of the road to Medina. The leaves were falling, the sun and sky were clear and the fresh cool air was invigorating.
I'm blessed to live in an area of Texas with the best motorcycle roads in the state, short of the Big Bend area. TX 16 leads south to Medina where one can catch FM 337 to Vanderpool and then Leakey (pronounced "Lakey") where one can then connect with either FM 336 or FM 335. The three roads are affectionately known as the "3 Sisters" or "Twisted Sisters" and are the best rides around. Tight, high, twisty and with roller coaster valleys in some of the highest hills in Texas, I usually head their direction when I have some free time to ride.
Stopping to top off for gas in Medina, I headed west on 337 to Vanderpool and then on to Leakey. I had no plans for the day but can't resist riding dirt roads I find along the way.
Leakey was dead for such a beautiful day - no motorcycles and mostly closed up. I had seen only 2 bikes on 337. The rest of the afternoon was similar with only one or two other motos on the roads. Maybe the morning weather had kept riders away... a good thing since I was able to ride with a sense of being alone.
Topping off at the Oldtimer in Medina
I’d seen a road that connected Hwy’s 336 and 335 but hadn't had a chance to explore it. The ranch road connection was FM 3235 off of 336, and listed as FM 2631 at the connection to 335. It seemed like a good day to check out the connection, so I headed north on 336 out of Leakey.
It was one of those days where rider and bike seem to be one. The ride was beautiful and smooth, the GS riding on rails through the curves, as cattle guards into ranch properties slowly marked the way north until FM 3235 appeared to my left.
FM 3235 was easy and fairly straight after FM 336, a typical Texas Farm to Market road, wide, clear and in excellent condition. The blacktop eventually ended in a gravel and rock coated “caliche” road. Google showed the old ranch road as "Bullhead Road", but of course there were no markings. I continued on until the dirt road forked with "Fair Ranch" to the right and no markings to the left. Staying left, I reached a cattle gate locked only with a metal snap and chain and a sign asking those passing through to please close it behind them. Many of the backroads in southwest Texas pass through private ranch land and it is common to pass through gates as you ride. Just make sure you're on a county road or yo’re in a heap o' trouble boy...
After closing the gate, the road got rougher and narrower, with deep, white powder silt abounding as the road wound tightly through clusters of pin oak trees and brushy cedar, though in fact the ubiquitous scrub “cedar” is actually juniper. As I approached a narrow, blind corner turning downhill, a teenager in an old pickup came blowing around the curve in a huge cloud of white dust, locking his brakes and skidding in an attempt to get back in control before hitting me. We narrowly missed and he waved, quite shocked to see me suddenly appear in his road. I knew the feeling, having grown up on the dusty hill country roads driving an old military surplus jeep as a kid, accustomed to the roads being abandoned and driving them like a private race track.
After the dust settled, I changed my shorts and headed on. The road got rougher and looser, heading downhill and through several dry river washes filled with rounded stones. In places the road became just two tracks through the grass and led again into dry river beds. I stopped counting, somewhat thankful these beds were dry, as I wouldn't relish crossing so many on a GS with the water and Green Slime of Death usually found at live crossings.
Most of the washes were wide and full of stones, the road passing down lengths of them as a roadbed of sorts. For those who don't live in the area, it is hard to imagine the volume and ferocity of water that can flow through these beds after a rain storm. Flash floods are a part of life in southwest Texas.
They call these "baby heads" in Colorado... not sure what we call 'em here in Texas.
The old ranch road required much attention riding on the GS, with areas of loose rock piled in curves, downhills and in the ever present washes. It led through some beautiful terrain, made more interesting by the gold of the slowly setting sun. I stopped in a dry bed for a couple of pics and to water some cactus, then continued on until reaching a crossing with a bit of water, held back by a small handmade-looking dam.
Stopping for a couple more pics, I stretched a bit and took off my jacket to cool down. The road had become challenging in some areas and I’d gotten a bit warm keeping the skittish front end of the GS on track.
Classic hill country scenery
A bump gate signaled the end of the rougher ranch road and back to civilization on FM 2631. FM 2631 was a nice wide, well maintained blacktop road. Few folks live off the road, so it seemed apparent someone of import and influence must live there, as the road is quite nice for such a remotely inhabited area. Probably a big rancher with some influence.
The bump gates are always interesting to pass through on a motorcycle, as they are heavy and swing away, only to swing back from gravity. One must bump them with enough force and speed to swing the heavy gate open, then get through before it swings back. You’d think it might be easier to stop and somehow push a motorcycle through, until you try it… It’s easier to hit it slow then accelerate quickly, but it can take a few tries to get it right on two wheels.
Das Bumpgate
Post bump gate
The deer had already begun to play on the roadsides, selecting who would be kamikazes for the evening, much to my consternation. Lots of fawns and doe, with a few wild turkeys for good measure. Before reaching FM 335, I passed a dual sport rider coming in the other lane, but couldn't tell what bike it was as we passed quickly.
Reaching 335 in the lengthening shadows, I headed south to Barksdale and decided to loop out west on the county road that then returns into Camp Wood. Google maps shows it as CR 210, but the sign says CR 380 and my Roads of Texas atlas doesn't list numbers but clearly shows it as a public loop road.
At any rate I headed west on it, passing the Barksdale cemetery and eventually coming to a fork in the road. To the left was a water crossing and several yards straight ahead there was a sign with CR 353 on it parallel with the water crossing. I headed over, but was blinded by the sun reflecting directly on the water the entire length of the crossing. Nothing like riding over a Green Slime of Death laden crossing entirely blind. If you’ve never ridden a slime covered stone or concrete roadway, you have no idea what “slick” is, until you’re sitting in water next to your motorcycle on its side. If you cross one, my suggestion is to always to stay in one of the worn tire tracks, and never touch the throttle or move the handle bars in any amount. My method is to accelerate before entering the crossing and then grab the clutch, coasting all the way across under momentum.
Once past the Slime Troll, the road got a bit rougher, passing another right fork with a green county road sign saying "CR 385" - wasn't sure if the fork was 385 or the road I was on was 385. Eventually I reached a gate with warning signs all over it and since it was getting pretty late I decided to forego any potential adventures involving men with guns and banjos. I reversed and eventually got back to Barksdale where I headed south to Camp Wood.
Camp Wood came up fast and as the sun set I stopped for a few minutes at the gas station and had a Coke, watching locals pull in in various old cars, returning from the store with various items, those mainly being cigarettes. Since I don't smoke I don't know, but maybe the setting sun triggers a "better buy some smokes now" jones.
The ride back to Kerville from Camp Wood would take a while and the sun was very low, triggering my deer avoidance phobias. I still had to pass the high road twisties between Camp Wood and Leakey, as well as the next batch between Leakey and Vanderpool, not to mention the road to Medina and then back up 16 and over "the hill".
Oh well, just slow down and enjoy it!
And enjoy it I did. I had never ridden 337 so late in the day and the light of a setting sun made it stunning. The low golden light shot narrow shafts through the gaps in the hills, highlighting the tops of the trees and curves. The air was crisp and cold down low in the water crossings, then warm as you rose, alternating and adding to the intensity of experience.
As I pulled into Leakey, a Highway Patrol car turned onto 337 in front of me, heading towards Vanderpool, purposely traveling slowly to keep me honest. I had no desire to poke along behind a trooper on the narrow twisty road for miles and miles, but little did I suspect how fast the dude would drive 337! Once out of the community, he hit the accelerator and disappeared ahead. I wanted to chase him, but decided to ride reasonably since the light was fading. Approaching the highest part of the twisties I rounded a curve with several bikes parked on the roadside and the riders waving "down". Around the curve, the officer had slowed almost to a stop and making a u-turn on the roadway. I couldn't see any obvious problems with the group of riders thankfully so maybe there was no significant injuries.
Reaching Vanderpool, the softest pink highlights of the setting sun were gone and the cold air of night was falling. I saw few deer until the last 15 miles or so, slowly enjoying the ride home.
Today's ride:
